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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.